Gluten Free and Vegan Birthday Cake

It’s always tricky figuring out how to start a blog post after ignoring this site for three months. But now I have recipes that I want to share and so I’m here. And I am sad that I’ve been away for so long again, but c’est la vie! Let’s press on as if we’ve been together all along! Also, I’m pregnant!
Anyhow! My dear and darling sister-in-law Joanna threw a tamalada for her sweet baby Lucy’s first birthday today.  Joanna and her family are gluten-free and dairy free, and so I offered to make the cake, because it would be well near impossible to make 400 tamales and a GF/DF cake in the same day. Oh, and the theme of the party, invented by Joanna’s older daughter, was Moo-sical, so I wanted to try to fit that theme if I could. So I researched.  
My normal approach for gluten free baking is to use my favorite gluten-y recipes, and just substitute the very best gluten free flour blend in place of all purpose (and of course make sure everything else, like the cocoa powder, is GF). My favorite GF flours are Cup4Cup, which is awfully pricey and only available at Williams Sonoma (in Texas, anyway) and King Arthur’s multi-purpose GF flour, which you can get at Whole Foods. I have heard not so great things about Bob’s Red Mill GF flours and baking mixes, which rely on bean flours and end up making things taste bean-y. But this cake had to be dairy-free as well as GF, so my favorite butter/buttermilk-heavy yellow and chocolate cake recipes wouldn’t do. Searching for GF, DF recipes online is so tricky.  There aren’t many that look promising (to my mind at least), and those that do (like this recipe from Babycakes in NYC) require a ton of random flours and xanthan gum, which I had no idea where to buy. 
And then I remembered a recipe from one of my food52 favorites, Oui Chef, for GF vegan chocolate cupcakes without any crazy ingredients. Huzzah! His recipe did call for garbanzo bean flour though, and I was worried that the cake might suffer from the same bean-y problem that plagues the Bob’s Red Mill stuff, so I subbed in the King Arthur GF flour in place of the two the recipe called for. All that remained was finding a good vegan frosting, and a quick search yielded this recipe for vegan fluffy buttercream frosting, which sounded promising. After reading the comments, I decided to start with half of the amount of sugar the recipe called for (many complained that it was too sweet) and taste from there. Half was plenty! I also omitted the soy milk, because the frosting had a nice consistency without it. Whew!
The verdict? I was pretty pleased with it! Yes, you can tell you’re not eating a standard gluten-y buttery cake.  It was very dark and chocolatey, and not as sweet as a normal cake (you use maple syrup instead of sugar). But it was moist, baked up beautifully, and had a texture resilient enough to allow me to carve it into the (approximate) shape of a cow. The frosting was sweet and simple and tasted a lot like the standard frosting you’d get with a grocery store birthday cake. But it paired nicely with the cake and I think the whole thing worked out pretty well. So, if you’ve been on the lookout for a gluten free and/or vegan celebration cake, I hope you’ll give this one a try!
Gluten Free Vegan Chocolate Cake
adapted slightly from Oui Chef, who in turn adapted it from Jennifer Katzinger’s “Flying Apron’s Gluten-Free and Vegan Baking Book”
  • 2 1/2 cups GF all purpose flour blend (I used King Arthur’s multi-purpose GF flour)
  • 1 1/3 cups cocoa powder, sifted (make sure this is GF! many aren’t)
  • 1 tablespoon baking soda
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
  • 1 cup EVOO or canola oil
  • 2 cups water
  • 2 cups maple syrup

  1. Heat the oven to 350℉.
  2. Grease two cake pans with Earth Balance or a similar vegan margarine and dust with GF flour (I used a 9″ round and an 8″ square for my cow, but you could do two rounds or make cupcakes instead, which should bake up in 15-18 minutes).
  3. Combine the GF flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl; whisk to evenly incorporate the ingredients.  In a separate large bowl, combine the oil, water and maple syrup.  Slowly whisk the flour mix into the liquids and mix until well combined.
  4. Pour the batter (yes, it is very runny) evenly into the two prepared pans.  Place the pans in the oven and cook 35-45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cakes comes out with just a few cooked crumbs attached. 
  5. Let the cakes cool completely in the pans, then remove them to a cooling rack for frosting.

Vegan Fluffy Buttercream Frosting
adapted from Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World, by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero via Chow
  • 1 cup nonhydrogenated shortening (I used Spectrum organic vegetable shortening)
  • 1 cup nonhydrogenated margarine (I used Earth Balance vegan buttery spread)
  • 1 lb powdered sugar, sifted if clumpy
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  1. Beat the shortening and margarine together until well combined and fluffy. Add the sugar and beat for about 3 more minutes.
  2. Add the vanilla and beat for another 5 minutes or so, until fluffy.

2012 in Menus

Starting in the first week of 2012, I saved every scrap of paper I used to record my weekly menu plan. At the time, I didn’t really know why I was saving them. As each week passed, I’d just take the old list off the fridge and add it to the pile on the bookshelf. Now it’s 2013 and I’m looking through my lists for the first time and, for me, it’s fascinating.

These lists are records of how I spent much of my free time this year. They show Henry’s first snacks and meals, the dishes I cooked for my loved ones’ birthdays, our weekly Downton Abbey suppers last winter, Henry’s first birthday party, the time Helen asked me to try to recreate a Wendy’s spicy chicken sandwich with local/from scratch ingredients, and the meals I cooked to comfort my family after our beloved dog, Snuggles, died this fall. They also show, quite plainly, how much my cooking-style has evolved over the course of the year.  When I flipped back to the first menu (the one in blue ink on the left side of the picture above), I was shocked to see that 4 out of 6 meals contained meat, and each used a different kind of meat too. For the past several months, I’ve limited myself to only one, maybe two, meat purchases a week, and these are usually spread across at least two different meals.  A whole chicken is great for this, because I can roast the chicken for one dinner, pull all the remaining meat off the bones for a second dinner, and turn the carcass into stock for a third dinner. A pound of ground breakfast sausage is a runner-up favorite, because I can use a little for breakfast tacos one night, some more (mixed with cheese, herbs, and breadcrumbs) as wee little meatballs on top of spaghetti the next, and the rest as a special weekend breakfast of sausage and biscuits.

I am really proud and happy of how much I’ve grown as a cook in the past year. For 2013, I’m going to work on these things:

  • Strive for a zero-waste kitchen (our new flock of backyard chickens are enormously helpful in this respect, because they’ll eat most anything, like the woody peelings of broccoli stalks that I use for my new ultra-favorite broccoli soup)
  • Flip the ratio of farmers’ market to grocery store purchases. I currently buy about 1/3 of our groceries from the Saturday market at Sunset Valley and the rest from Central Market, but I’d like to try to make the majority of our meals from farmers’ market ingredients
  • Do more canning! My sister and I canned 25 pounds of tomatoes this summer, and it has been so much fun to cook with them this winter.  I want to do more of this in 2013. 
  • Expand my vegetable garden and actually use the stuff that comes out of it. I’ve got a couple lovely kale plants that have been ready to harvest for weeks now, and I keep buying kale anyway. I don’t know why. Also, we didn’t chicken-proof the garden well enough and those clever broads climbed under the fence and devoured most of my young winter crops. So, room for improvement!

Here’s to a happy new year!

Cook What Scares You

Have you read Tamar Adler’s An Everlasting Meal? It is an inspirational book, to be sure, and is one that has given me countless ideas for how to use up the “ends” of meals and ingredients to minimize waste and maximize thrift in the kitchen, like a leftover pasta frittata, chard stem and broccoli stalk pesto, and the most delicious kale gratin of all time. But that book also planted the seed of my greatest food fear: homemade, whisk-only mayonnaise. Adler’s prose is absolutely beautiful, and florid, and sort of mesmerizing.  It makes you feel like you can and will duplicate every recipe she describes in her book.  The section on the joys of homemade mayonnaise, made exclusively with good olive oil, was no exception.  I have made mayonnaise successfully in a blender, no problem, using canola oil. When you try to do the same thing with olive oil, though, the mayonnaise comes out noticeably bitter.  Adler describes the bitter olive oil phenomenon scientifically, which I can’t replicate here, but essentially says that any time olive oil is processed with a mechanical blade (blender, food processor, immersion blender) it turns bitter.  So an olive oil mayonnaise, the very best kind of homemade mayonnaise, must be done by hand.

Armed with her beautiful description of the process, farm eggs, and two cups of olive oil, I set about trying to make it.  You’re supposed to add the oil in the tiniest drops imaginable, and almost excruciatingly slowly, whisking like a maniac all the while to build an emulsion between oil and egg.  Well friends, it didn’t go well.  I rushed the oil, lost arm strength far to quickly, and my mayonnaise never came together.  You can try to save the mayo twice, by starting over with a fresh egg and whisking in your failure-sauce anew.  I failed both times, my arm getting weaker and weaker as I went. I finally ended up adding the egg and olive oil mixture to a pot of freshly cooked pasta in an extravagantly rich attempt to not have all those lovely ingredients go to waste, but I was brokenhearted about the whole thing and determined never to waste olive oil in the attempt at homemade mayonnaise again.

Enter Abbie. Abbie is my friend and food hero, a passionate and tireless cook who is always coming up with new and wonderful recipes. A few months ago she emailed me and a few other local food52ers with a brilliant idea: let’s have a meet-up to cook the things that scare us.  Obviously, I didn’t have to do much soul-searching to come up with my contribution to this get-together.  Abbie copped to being scared of souffles and fried chicken, our friend Molly mentioned challah, and I agreed to take another stab at that damn mayonnaise.

We tackled Molly’s challah first.  And oh man, did Molly pick a doozy of a recipe for her first attempt at her fear! This fig, olive oil, and sea salt challah has a homemade fig jam tucked into the ropes of bread dough, which are then braided together to make a gorgeous round loaf. Molly brought the freshly made dough and the fig jam, and she and Abbie set to work:

A lovely swish of a lovely jam.

We might have been a little heavy-handed with the jam, but Abbie and Molly just swiped the excess off with a spoon before pinching the rope of dough closed and stretching it as far as it would stretch.

Tucking the rope ends in after a surprisingly simple weaving process.

I feel sorry for the accosted bread dough in this picture. Transferring to the parchment-lined baking sheet for an egg wash before the second rise.

The dough is brushed with egg again after the second rise, and then sprinkled with your flakiest sea salt.  The double egg wash is what gives you this gorgeous mahogany crust:

Behold! Fear no.1: annihilated!

The taste was completely wonderful too! The salt on the outside was a fun, pretzel-y addition, the crumb of the bread was soft and supple, and the fig jam was lovely and not too sweet. Molly talked about trying her hand at an apple-butter filled variation, and Abbie envisioned a savory pumpkin-filled loaf for Thanksgiving.  These girls are rad.

Next, it was my turn to try the godforsaken mayonnaise.  Abbie poured in the olive oil while I whisked with all my gumption.  You can’t see the wires of the whisk in the picture above because I was a mayonnaise ninja! I channeled the force of Tamar Adler and gave that shit everything I had.

A million minutes later, we had done it!! I was beyond thrilled. And it tasted unbelievable too- velvety olive smoothness without a trace of bitterness. We mixed in a good amount with some turkey Abbie had roasted the night before (!?) along with diced apple, red onion, parsley, and lemon juice and ate our delicious turkey salad on bits of baguette. It was delightful. But is my fear conquered? I’d say yes, with the qualifier that I’m not scared so long as Abbie is there to pour the oil in for me.

Last up was the chicken, which (spoiler alert! because I neglected to take ANY process pictures) turned out fabulous. We used Michael Ruhlman’s genius recipe for Rosemary-Brined Buttermilk Fried Chicken. Abbie brined the chicken pieces before we got there, and together we breaded the chicken in a flour/spice/baking powder mixture, dipped it in buttermilk, and then dredged it a separate pan of the flour mixture. We fried half the pieces in Abbie’s giant cast iron skillet, which had been filled halfway up with peanut oil and heated over medium until bubbles formed around the bottom of a wooden spoon when you held it in the oil. The first four pieces looked pretty nice, but the crust wasn’t quite as shaggy as we might’ve liked.  I mentioned that my go-to fried chicken recipe (yeah, I’ve made it a lot :/ ) has you mix the baking powder and an egg into the buttermilk, so that the mixture becomes thick and foamy, and helps more flour stick in the second dredging.  We tried this method with the second batch, and all agreed it was a bit better than the first, though both were totally delicious. That rosemary brine is a knockout too! The meat was succulent and herby, perfectly seasoned (even though there’s only 3 tablespoons of salt in the brine!), and just fantastic.

So, Cook What Scares You: Beige Edition was a smashing success! It was empowering to tackle my fear with the help of two accomplished cooks and I’m excited to do it again! Next time, Abbie’s gonna make me butcher a rabbit. o_O